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Five Chamber Bat Box
Seven Chamber Box

Box parts.
These pre-cut peices comprise a Five Chamber BCM Bat House:

1- FRONT
This part is scratched on the inside face, has two narrow vents, and a beveled top to accommodate the sloping roof.
1- BACK
This part is scratched on the inside face. The BACK is the largest single part in the kit.
1- ROOF
This part is scratched on the inside face and one edge is beveled to form a sloped roof.
2- SIDES
These parts have the top edge sloped to form the roof. Near the bottom rear edge of each side is a cut out vent. The inside face of each side is grooved to accomodate baffles.
2- ROOF STRIPS
These strips have a beveled edge to accommodate the sloping roof.
2- SHORT BAFFLES
This plywood should already be densely roughened on each side.
2- LONG BAFFLES
This plywood should already be densely roughened on each side.
1- ROOFING MATERIAL
1- SCREEN
to be installed over the landing plate on the BACK.
1- tube of roofing cement.
70 exterior grade screws

1. INSPECT FRONT, BACK, and each BAFFLE
Lay out all materials and inspect the roughened sides of each BAFFLE, FRONT, and BACK. These surfaces have already been roughened to give bats footholds inside the box. These scratch marks should be no more than 0.25'' apart. Young bats need as many footholds as possible, so use a utility knife to add more scratches on any area which seems neglected. More footholds in the box will make it easier for bats to use the site, which in turn increases the likelihood they will use the box for years to come. NEVER USE A SAW to roughen baffles, as this will cause the plywood to delaminate.

2 ATTACH FRONT to SIDES
Stand the two SIDES up on a workbench along the edge containing the vents. Apply a bead of caulk to the front edge of one SIDE and attach the box FRONT with six screws. The sloping edge of the SIDE should match the sloping edge at the top lip of the FRONT. With one SIDE securely attached, caulk the remaining SIDE and attach with six additional screws. Excess caulk should have squeezed from the joint between the FRONT and the SIDES, assuring a good seal. Wipe off excess caulk from edges.

3. ATTACH BACK
Caulk back edge of SIDES, but do not caulk the vents. Lay the BACK on to the sides, roughened side in. The top edge of the BACK should extend 2'' beyond the top of the SIDES. This will form an important lip which will be used to mount the finished box to a pole or structure. Securely attach ONE SIDE to the BACK using eight screws. Due to minor warping of the wood, the unattached SIDE may not be aligned with the BACK. Manually align the remaining SIDE to the BACK as best as possible without breaking off the SIDE and install the remaining screws.

Extra sealant oozing from the joints is exactly what should happen to ensure a good seal. Wipe off excess caulk from edges.

4. INSTALL rear ROOF STRIP
Center the ROOF STRIP on the inside of the BACK, about two inches from the top of box BACK. Align the angled edge of the ROOF STRIP with the angled top edge of the SIDES. Place a straightedge across the top of the SIDES along the BACK. Draw a line across the back and then use this as a guide when placing the roof strip. Once the position of the screws is found, use a tape measure to assure screws are even. Attach with three screws from the back of the BACK. This is the most difficult part of the assembly and some care is needed to insure a flat roof assembly and an airtight seal.

5. INSTALL front ROOF STRIP to FRONT
Center and align a ROOF STRIP along the inside top edge of the FRONT. Make sure the beveled edge of the ROOF STRIP matches the beveled edges of the SIDES and FRONT. Attach with three screws from the front of the FRONT.

6. ATTACH ROOF
Apply a bead of caulk to top of SIDES, FRONT, two ROOF STRIPS, and angled back edge of ROOF. Lay ROOF in position and attach with three screws into each the back and the front. By angling the back screws, the BACK can be "pulled into" the ROOF forming a tight seal. If too much angle is applied screws will poke out the BACK. Cut off screws using a rotary tool or wire cutters and dab caulk on the screw ends to prevent corrosion. Two additional screws should be placed through the ROOF and into each SIDE. Wipe off excess caulk from edges.

7. INSPECT SEAMS
Caulk back of roof top where it butts against the BACK and smooth with a damp towel. Inspect all seams and add caulk if necessary. Top of box MUST be airtight to hold morning heat.

8. ROUGHEN EXTERIOR
Use the utility knife to roughen around each of the vents as some bats will use the vents as entrances. Also roughen the interior bottom of each SIDE, as bats will use the sides to enter the box. Lastly, the landing plate itself needs to be severely roughened in case the screening (to be installed during step 11) should ever fall off. If the screening is ever lost, DO NOT replace with aluminum screen. Bat excrement reacts to aluminum and the result is poisonous to bats.

9. APPLY STAIN
Apply two or three coats of black stain to exterior of entire box including the landing plate.

10. FINISH ROOF
Apply thin bead of caulk around roof edges, and form an "X" pattern on ROOF to serve as glue. Lay the roofing material on ROOF, black side up. Staple in place, then caulk all exposed staples. Apply a final bead of caulk along top of roofing material where the roofing material meets the BACK. Check all edges and seams and add additional caulk if necessary.

11. FINISH LANDING PLATE
Place fiberglass screening over landing plate and staple securely. Normally about 20 staples are used all over the screen. Trim excess with utility knife once screen is securely fastened. Coat the staples with black stain.

12. INSTALL BAFFLES
Slide baffles into grooves in the SIDES. If the baffles are too tight, lightly sand the baffle edge until a fit is achieved. Secure the each baffle with one screw in each SIDE. Bats would rather be left in the dark. To help cut down excess stray light from entering the box, use the black spray paint to darken the bottom of the baffles. DO NOT paint the entire baffle, only the bottom few inches is necessary. The box is now complete, but must be placed properly to attract bats.

Note: more detailed plans and instructions are included in actual kits.

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